NC State Extension Publications


Western North Carolina is a wonderful place to garden. Almost any type of vegetable or fruit can be grown successfully provided you choose appropriate varieties and plant at the right time of year. The climate, the season, and potential pests all affect the selection of what and when to plant.

Adapted to Climate

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Freezing temperatures, high temperatures, humidity, and solar intensity, all common in western North Carolina, can stress plants. To successfully grow plants in this environment, select varieties that are tolerant of temperature extremes, plant at the appropriate times to avoid temperature extremes, or plan to protect the plants (Figure 1). It is possible to grow plants out of season by creating microclimates that differ from the overall climate by providing shade, humidity, or artificial heat.

Collard greens planted outdoors with a layer of snow on the ground

Figure 1. Cool-season vegetables can tolerate colder temperatures and some frost.


Skip to Seasons

We have three optimal growing seasons: spring, summer, and fall. Both day length and temperature vary dramatically between seasons (short days and cold temperatures in winter to long days and high temperatures in summer). Because few annual plants are suited to thrive in both circumstances, it is important to choose cool-season plants for spring and fall and warm-season plants for summer, (Figure 2).

Outdoor raised beds with a variety of warm-season vegetables

Figure 2. Warm-season vegetables don’t tolerate frost and should only be planted outside when frost is no longer a threat.

Disease and Pest Resistance

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Choose varieties that have been bred to resist diseases and pests. Some companies list resistance on the plant tag, the seed package, or in a seed catalog. Many companies use initials following the plant variety name. For example, in tomatoes “V” may mean resistant to Verticillium wilt disease, “N” may indicate resistance to nematodes, “F” may indicate resistance to Fusarium wilt disease, and “T” may indicate resistance to Tobacco Mosaic virus. Different companies use different symbols, so be sure to check their respective keys to understand the labeling. Choose a planting date to avoid known pest seasons. With the exception of beans, which are susceptible to stem rot in cold weather, start early to avoid insect and disease pressure that builds late in the season.


Skip to Cultivars

Select varieties that provide desirable yield, taste, texture, and color. Using varieties that mature quickly may help avoid insect and disease problems. New varieties are released each year, and other varieties may become unavailable. Check with your local Extension website, Extension Master Gardener volunteers, or Extension agents for the varieties best adapted to your area. For recommendations of specific vegetable, varieties see NCSU Growing Small Farms, Clemson, the University of Georgia, Virginia Tech, and Cornell University.

Planting Dates

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The dates in Table 1 are suggested guidelines and should provide the highest probability of success, but weather conditions vary from year to year and planting dates should be adjusted accordingly. Plants established in the middle of the recommended planting dates will do best with lower success rates at both the earlier and later recommended planting dates. The dates on the chart are for planting out in the garden (Figure 3). If you provide shade in the summer and frost protection in the winter, you may be able to extend the season both before and after these recommended dates. Spunwoven covers can allow you to begin your garden earlier in the spring and extend it longer into the fall. In addition, plastic mulches can be used to produce vegetables earlier in the season. Planting additional plants every few weeks within the planting window will extend your harvest over a greater period.

Table 1. Garden planting calendar for vegetables, fruits, and herbs in Western North Carolina.
Fruit, Herb, or Vegetable Days to Harvest
(from seed unless
otherwise noted)
Distance Between Plants
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15
Artichokes, globe T = 1 year 30 T T T
Artichokes, Jerusalem* Tu = 6–8 months 9–12 Tu Tu Tu
Arugula 40–50 6–9 S S S S S S
Asparagus C = 2 years 18 C C C C C C C
Basil T = 14–35
S = 50–75
2–8 S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T
Beans, lima/bush 65–80 6 S S S
Beans, lima/pole 75–95 6 S S S
Beans, snap/bush 50–55 2 S S S S S
Beans, snap/pole 65–70 6 S S S S S
Beets 55–60 2 S S S S S
Broccoli T = 70–80 18 T T T T T
Brussels sprouts T = 40–50
S = 90–100**
14–18 T T
Cabbage T = 63–75
S = 90–120**
12 T T T T T T
Cabbage, Chinese T = 45–55
S = 75–85
12 S,T S,T S,T S,T
Fruit, Herb, or Vegetable Days to Harvest
(from seed unless
​otherwise noted)
Distance Between Plants
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15
Carrots 75–80 2 S S S S S S S S
Cauliflower T = 55–65
S = 85–95
18 S,T S,T S,T S,T
Celery T = 40–70
S = 120–150**
6–8 T T T T T
Chard, Swiss T = 32–42
S = 60–70
6 S,T S,T S,T
Cilantro 50–55 2–4 S S S S S S
Collard greens T = 32–72
S = 60–100
18 S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T
Corn, sweet 85–90 12 S S S S S
Cucumbers T = 28–37
S = 56–65
12 S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T
Dill 40–55 2–4 S S S S S
Eggplant T = 90–95
S = 150–155**
24 T T T T
Fennel, Florence 60–90 6–12 S S S S
Garlic B = 180-210 4–6 B B B B B
Kale T = 14–22
S = 40–50
6 S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T
Kohlrabi T = 22–32
S = 50–60
4 S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T
Fruit, Herb, or Vegetable Days to Harvest
(from seed unless
​otherwise noted)
Distance Between Plants
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15
Leek T = 50–80
S = 120–150
4 S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T
Lettuce, head T = 45–60
S = 70–85
10 S S S S S S
Lettuce, leaf T = 15–25
S = 40–50
6 S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T
Melons, cantaloupe T = 57–62
S = 85–90
24 S,T S,T S,T S,T
Melons, watermelon T = 60–72
S = 90–100
60 S,T S,T S,T
Mustard 30–40 2 S S S S S S S S S S S
Okra T = 18–28
S = 60–70
12 S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T
Onions, bulb B = 75–105
S = 90–120
4 S S,B S,B S S
Onions, green T = 42–56
S = 60–70
1–2 S S,T S,T S,T T S,T T
Pac choi/bok choy T = 30–75
S = 45–90**
7–12 T T T T
Parsley T = 33
S = 75
9–12 S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T
Parsnips 100–130 3–4 S S S S S S S S S
Peanuts 145–160 6–8 S S
Peas, bush 54–60 4 S S S S
Fruit, Herb, or Vegetable Days to Harvest
(from seed unless
​otherwise noted)
Distance Between Plants
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15 1 15
Peas, vining 54–72 2–3 S S S S
Peas, field/southern 55–65 4 S S S S
Peppers T = 75–80
S = 145–150**
18 T T T
Potatoes, Irish Tu = 95–120 10 Tu Tu
Potatoes, sweetpotatoes T = 95–125 10 T T
Pumpkin 115–120 48 S S S
Radishes 20–25 1 S S S S S S
Rutabega 70–80 4 S S S S S
Spinach 50–60 6 S S S S S S S S
Squash, summer T = 30–40
S = 50–60
24 S,T S,T S,T S,T S,T
Squash, winter T = 42–67
S = 70–95
36 S,T S,T S,T
Sunflower 55–110 9–24 S S S S
Tomatoes T = 75–85
S = 125–135**
18 T T T T
Turnips 55–60 2 S S S S S S
Note: B = bulbs; C = crowns; S = seeds; T = transplants; Tu = tubers
* Best grown in a pot, as it can spread aggressively.
** Start seeds indoors for later transplant into the garden. Do not plant seeds directly in the garden.
Dates listed are for planting outside in the garden. To grow transplants, seed 6–8 weeks before the "T" date.

Outdoor garden

Figure 3. Vegetables planted out in the open.


Skip to Transplants

If growing your own transplants, start seedlings six to eight weeks before transplanting them into the garden (Figure 4). Protect tender transplants from severe temperature conditions. Harden them off prior to transplanting by gradually introducing them to the new environment. Just before transplanting, take them outside for increasing periods each day until they are acclimated to the new temperature and light conditions.

Watering seedlings

Figure 4. Start seedlings six to eight weeks prior to transplanting them.


Skip to Acknowledgments

This publication is based on prior work by Debbie Roos, Doug Jones, Erv Evans, and Larry Bass. The authors would like to thank Jeanine Davis, Bill Jester, Issac Lewis, Jonathan Schultheis, Allan Thornton, and especially Debra Ireland for their assistance with this publication.


Skip to References

Brandenburg, R., D. Jordan, B. Shew, J. Wilcut, and S. Toth. 2005. Crop Profile for Peanuts in North Carolina. Raleigh, NC: North Carolina State University.

Bratsch, A. 2009. Specialty Crop Profile: Globe Artichoke. Virginia Cooperative Extension, Publication 438-108.

Jones, D. and D. Roos. Planting and Harvesting Guide for Piedmont Vegetables and Herbs. North Carolina Cooperative Extension.

McCarth, W. and D. Sanders. 2001. Celery. HIL-27. Raleigh, NC: North Carolina Cooperative Extension.

Putnam, D.H., E.S. Oplinger, D.R. Hicks, B.R. Durgan, D.M. Noetzel, R.A. Meronuck, J.D. Doll, and E.E. Schulte. 2011. Alternative Field Crops Manual: Sunflower. University of Wisconsin and University of Minnesota.

Schultheis, J. 1999. Growing Jerusalem Artichokes. HIL-1A. Raleigh, NC: North Carolina Cooperative Extension.

Schultheis, J. 1998. Muskmelons (Cantaloupes). HIL-8. Raleigh, NC: North Carolina Cooperative Extension.


Extension Specialist, Urban Horticulture
Horticultural Science
Extension Vegetable Specialist and Associate Professor
Horticultural Science
Assistant Professor
Horticultural Science
Extension Specialist, 4-H - Horticulture, Crops, Entomology and Soil Science
Horticultural Science
Extension Agent, Agriculture - Horticulture
Burke County
Extension Agent, Agriculture - Horticulture
Henderson County

Find more information at the following NC State Extension websites:

Publication date: Aug. 4, 2016

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