Recommended maintenance practices for a lawn that consists of a blend of tall fescue, hard (fine) fescue, and Kentucky bluegrass are the same as those for a tall fescue lawn. The following management practices will help you care for your lawn throughout the year. Location, terrain, soil type and condition, age of the lawn, previous lawn care, and other factors affect turf performance, so adjust these management practices and dates to suit your particular lawn.

Mowing

Mow to 2¹ ⁄₂ to 3¹⁄₂ inches. Mow often enough so that no more than one-third of the grass height is cut; this may be every five to seven days in late spring. Leave grass clippings on the lawn where they decompose quickly and can provide up to 25 percent of the lawn’s fertilizer needs. If prolonged rain or other factors delay mowing and clippings are too plentiful to leave on the lawn, collect them and use them as mulch. DO NOT bag them for trash collection; grass clippings do not belong in landfills.

Fertilization

Fertilize as needed to promote color and recovery from damage (such as pests, traffic, or early disease). If fertilized, rates should generally be between 1/5 and 1/2 pound of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet, with lower amounts generally applied after March 15.

Insect Control

White grubs may be active at this time, but spring curative applications are not effective. Make note of areas with white grub activity and plan to apply a preventive application in the following spring or early summer. Specific timing will vary depending on white grub species, so plan to make an application when adult flight is at its peak. See the NC State Extension publication White Grubs in Turf for specific recommendations.

Weed Control

Apply preemergence herbicides to control crabgrass, goosegrass, and foxtail. It is typically best if applied in early March, sooner in the piedmont and coastal regions. See the NC State Extension publication Pest Control for Professional Turfgrass Managers for more information.

Aeration

Delay aeration until fall.

Watering

This turfgrass blend needs about 1 inch of water every week, ideally NOT all at once. A dark bluish-gray color and wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Water until the soil is wet to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Use a screwdriver or similar implement to check for proper saturation. Sandy soils require more frequent watering (about ¹⁄₂ inch of water every third day). In clay soils, which accept water slowly, irrigate just until runoff occurs, wait until the water has been absorbed, and begin watering again. Continue until the desired depth or amount is applied. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce problems later in the summer. Watering between 2 a.m. and 8 a.m. decreases the incidence of certain diseases.

Thatch

It is generally not necessary to remove thatch.

Mowing

Mow to 3¹⁄₂ inches and mow before the grass gets taller than 5 inches.

Fertilization

Fertilize as needed to promote color and recovery from damage. If fertilizing, rates should generally be between 1/5 and ½ pound of N per 1,000 square feet.

Insect Control

Preventive treatments for white grubs can be used in June, when adults are flying and starting to lay eggs. Curative treatments for white grubs are applied after the larvae have hatched from the egg stage. The best time to apply curative treatments is about 24 hours after significant rainfall, when grubs are actively feeding near the soil surface. See the NC State Extension publication White Grubs in Turf for specific recommendations.

Disease Control

Tall fescue is highly susceptible to brown patch disease, which appears as irregularly shaped patches of dead or dying turf. Brown patch develops under high humidity and when ambient temperatures are above 85°F. It becomes extremely severe during prolonged, overcast wet weather with evening air temperatures above 68°F and daytime temperatures in the mid to upper 80s. Ensure that the mowing height remains above 3 inches and water between 2 a.m. and 8 a.m. Apply fungicide during severe brown patch outbreaks. See the NC State Extension publication Diseases of Cool-Season Grasses for more information.

Tall fescue is also susceptible to gray leaf spot, which appears as irregularly shaped patches of dead or dying turf. It can be challenging to distinguish gray leaf spot from brown patch. Your North Carolina Cooperative Extension center can assist with diagnoses. Gray leaf spot develops when nighttime temperatures remain above 70°F and humidity remains high. Typically, the disease is most active in July through October. It can be challenging to control and requires multiple approaches for successful suppression. Keep mowing heights at 3 inches or taller and mow consistently. Removing grass clippings can limit the spread of the disease. Fungicides will be required to suppress this disease. See the NC State Extension publication Gray Leaf Spot in Turf to learn about effective fungicides.

Weed Control

DO NOT use herbicides at this time.

Aeration

Delay aeration until fall.

Watering

Either water as needed to prevent drought stress or allow the lawn to go dormant. Dormant lawns must be watered once every three weeks during a drought.

Renovation

Western region only! Overseed thin, bare areas as weather cools (August 15 to September 1). Lawns may be aerated as part of the renovation process. Use a blend of "turf type" tall fescue cultivars at 6 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet. Hard (fine) fescue and Kentucky bluegrass seed can be added to the tall fescue seed at the rate of 1 to 2 lb of each species per 1,000 square feet. In the absence of a soil test recommendation, apply a starter-type (high phosphorous) fertilizer. Keep the seedbed moist with light watering several times per day. Do not let the seedlings dry out.

Mowing

Mow to 2¹⁄₂ to 3 inches in height.

Fertilization

Have your soil tested. Ask your county Cooperative Extension agent about a free soil test. Then apply the nutrient your lawn needs. If you don't test, apply a complete nitrogen-phosphorus- potassium (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio (that is, 12-4-8 or 16-4-8). For a basic level of fertility, fertilize with 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet in mid-September and again in November (about the time the grass is green but not actively growing).

You need to apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, so how much fertilizer do you need to buy? Divide 100 by the FIRST number of the fertilizer bag. (The first number always represents nitrogen content.) For example, if you've got a 10-10-10 fertilizer, divide 100 by 10 and you get 10. That means you need to buy 10 pounds of fertilizer for every 1,000 square feet of lawn.

Aerification

Aerate lawns that are subject to heavy traffic or grown on clay soils. Remove plugs and break them up to put the soil back into the lawn.

Insect Control

Curative applications applied in early fall may control some white grubs, but efficacy will vary depending on the size of grub. Later instars (larger grubs) are harder to treat than early instars. Identify and make note of problem areas for preventive applications in late spring/early summer.

Weed Control

Apply broadleaf herbicides to control broadleaf weeds like chickweed, henbit, and other weeds as necessary. Caution: Some herbicides may affect newly seeded turf. Follow label directions. See Pest Control for Professional Turfgrass Managers for more information.

Watering

Follow guidelines for March through May.

Mowing

Mow to 3 inches and remove leaves and other debris.

Fertilization

Fertilize with 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet in February.

Aeration

Delay aeration until fall.

Weed Control

Apply broadleaf herbicides as necessary for control of annual winter weeds like chickweed and henbit.

Watering

Follow guidelines for March through May.